How to Properly Care for a Leather Jacket

In short, no.

All leather jackets - regardless of brand - will face issues when wet. Why? Because leather is a skin, just like our own. It’s porous, meaning there are plenty of small spaces that moisture can get trapped in.

Once water gets into leather, it’s hard to get out. This leads to textural damage over time as the fibres of the leather break down. It can also create damp smells.

That doesn’t mean a brief shower will automatically send your jacket to leather heaven. Leather is made to be worn, and British weather has never been known for respecting outfit plans. However, soaking it through can lead to water marks, colour changes, stiffness and damage to the finish. If you are particularly concerned about this, we’d recommend patch testing a hydrophobic spray. This can help protect your leather jacket from light showers, but you’ll still need to take precautions.

If you have made the mistake of getting your leather jacket wet, you need to act fast.

Use a dry towel to blot away excess water. Pat the jacket, rather than scrub. Wiping the jacket can push the water into the pores of the leather, move surface dye or disturb the finish, particularly on softer or more absorbent leather. 

Leave the item in a well ventilated area to dry naturally, ideally on a padded hanger, unzipped.

We’d strongly advise against this. If the top layer of your leather dries too fast, you run the risk of trapping water inside.

If left against a radiator, your leather may dry out. It’s a skin after all, packed with natural oils. That’s why we’d recommend using a leather moisturiser on particularly old leather items.

Hanging your leather out to dry in the sun also runs the risk of sun bleaching, an effect that can cause your leather to look faded. 

A well ventilated area away from direct sunlight is always best for drying your leather jacket.

First of all - avoid spraying perfumes directly on the leather jacket. 

Spraying fragrance, aftershave, fabric freshener or deodorant directly onto leather is more likely to cover the smell temporarily than remove it. Alcohol-based products can mark or discolour some leather finishes, while scented liquids can (again) get trapped in the pores of the leather skin. Once moisture gets into the fibres of the leather, it can degrade the skin over time leading to tears and rips.

If your leather jacket is relatively new, it may have smells left over from the tannery. Some describe this as a ‘meaty’ smell. In this case, the best 

If you have acquired a vintage leather jacket, we’d recommend the same method. However, be advised that smells such as nicotine or damp from poor storage conditions can be deeply embedded into the leather fibres and may take a considerable amount of time to remove.

Believe it or not - no!

Not on a cool wash. Not inside a pillowcase. Not on the delicate setting because someone on TikTok said it worked for them. 

We have previously been contacted by customers who have attempted this, much to our dismay. A washing machine combines water, detergent, agitation and spinning. That is a fairly comprehensive list of things your leather jacket did not ask for. The process can strip oils, affect the dye, damage the surface finish, distort the shape and create problems with the lining, padding and trims.

The tumble dryer that usually follows is an equally firm no.

When the care label says specialist leather clean only, it means a cleaner experienced in leather and suede. It does not necessarily mean handing it to any standard dry cleaner and hoping for the best. Ask whether they regularly handle leather garments and what process they use.

For major cleaning, difficult stains or valuable vintage pieces, a professional leather cleaner is the sensible option.

Before trying to remove a mark, decide whether it is damage or character.

Leather naturally develops a patina through wear. Fine lines, subtle tonal changes and softened edges are part of the appeal. A jacket that has lived a little should look like it.

For surface scuffs, you can usually make them less visible with a leather polish. One that matches the colour of your jacket of course.

Deep scratches and cuts need proper repair. Unlike other textiles, leather doesn’t respond too well to a few stitches. Patches can go a long way to hide these, but ultimately you may need to consult an expert to replace the affected panel.

There are many tools that can be used for leather care, depending on your subjective idea of what makes a leather jacket look good.

Some of us want a totally battered, aged leather jacket with bumps and scuffs a plenty. Others would prefer a smooth, unwrinkled moisturised to perfection jacket.

Here’s an extensive list of tools to consider:

• Hydrophobic spray
  You’ll need to find one specifically for leather and patch test to ensure there’s no conflict with leftover chemicals from the tannery.
• Suede brush
  Often made from horse hair and soft synthetic fibres, a suede brush if just the right amount of pressure to remove surface debris.
• Leather balm/wax
  Balm coats the leather to fill in holes that moisture can get trapped in.
• Leather moisturiser
  Moisturiser was created to replace lost natural oils. It’s particularly good for old leather jackets and you shouldn’t need to use it more than once every few months. Patch test accordingly before wider use.
• Black leather polish
  A staple in the Barneys office. If you’re the type of person who likes to hide any small scuff, investing in a classic leather polish is key. Just make sure it’s a fast drying one and won’t transfer onto other fabrics.